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history Trench coat

The trench coat was a product of the latest textile innovations when it was introduced in the late 1800s. Many of its classic features were designed for military use after the turn of the century – but it was originally a high-performance garment for sports and expeditions. Made from a new kind of waterproof fabric, the trench coat was lighter and more flexible than traditional woollen greatcoats, and more breathable than rubberised raincoats.

history Trench coat

Photo: Getty Images

The trench coat was a product of the latest textile innovations when it was introduced in the late 1800s. Many of its classic features were designed for military use after the turn of the century – but it was originally a high-performance garment for sports and expeditions. Made from a new kind of waterproof fabric, the trench coat was lighter and more flexible than traditional woollen greatcoats, and more breathable than rubberised raincoats.

The traditional trench coat is double-breasted with a belted waist to fit comfortably over a uniform. Cut at knee length, it covers most of the body but still allows ease of movement due to its flared shape from the waist down. The original design featured large and deep pockets that could be reached both from the inside and outside, while D-rings on the belt held gear and accessories. Straps at the sleeve cuffs could be tightened and the collar buttoned up to keep the weather out. On the shoulders, a deep back yoke prevented water seeping in.

Trench coats became fashionable in both Europe and America during the first decades of the 1900s. They were aspirational garments, identified with the upper class, but also worn to show support and solidarity with the military. In 1960s Paris, the classic trench coat design was reinterpreted for women and developed into a distinctively feminine item.