Design|April 2025
The inspiration for the modern overshirt
The overshirt is an essential building block of the contemporary menswear wardrobe, combining functional layering with practical details and bridging the gap between smart and casual settings. Modern overshirts draw inspiration from functional workwear and utility garments, including the French blue work jacket, military jackets, and artisan smocks.
Wool and flannel versions have their origins in mid-20th-century naval ‘CPO’ shirts, originally designed for Chief Petty Officers in the U.S. Navy. These shirts provided warmth and durability in harsh conditions.
Lighter multi-pocket cotton shirts borrow designs from the French ‘bleu de travail’ and similar chore jackets, which were staples for French labourers due to their practical design and durable construction.
Traditionally, labourers and engineers wore blue jackets, black was used for carpenters’ and roofers’ clothing, while stonemasons, bricklayers, and painters were dressed in white to indicate their trades and manage the visibility of stains.
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Minimally detailed and cut with extra room, the modern overshirt can be layered over shirts or knits as an adaptable and more casual alternative to tailored jackets.
The practical elements, such as large pockets and durable fabrics, ensure that the overshirt remains a functional garment while the clean lines and classic silhouettes keep it a simple, timeless, and continuously relevant piece in everyday wardrobes.
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