Interviews|March 2025
Susanna Cognigni on functional beauty and creative collaboration
Susanna Cognigni is our senior shoes and accessories designer, leading the design of our women’s footwear and bags since our first collection in 2017. For the past few years, she has been based in Civitanova, a seaside city in the Marche region, where most of our shoes are produced, and near where she was born and raised in a large family of shoemakers.
With both parents and most of her relatives working in the shoemaking business, Susanna was introduced to the craft from a young age. ‘It was just something I was always surrounded by. In the summertime, when school was closed, I would help my father in his workshop, designing and cutting leather, and drawing chalk lines where the stitches would go. Now, after more than 20 years in the trade, it’s incredibly valuable for me as a designer to understand how products are made,’ she says.
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The Marche region, on the east coast of Italy, has a shoemaking tradition dating back to the 1400s. Today, specialists in every aspect of the shoemaking process – from the last maker to the tanneries, heel and sole makers, and those crafting trims and hardware – can be found in towns like Civitanova.
‘To me, that’s the main benefit of making our shoes here. Most of the companies are small and family-owned, and there’s so much knowledge and skill passed down through generations. I have a very close relationship with the people I work with – from the owners of the companies to the seamstresses and leather cutters. The design of our products is developed in dialogue with them. They refine our ideas, and sometimes, they even bring their own suggestions. It’s a beautiful exchange.’
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In her work with ARKET’s collection, Susanna favours a simple, unadorned, and – above all – functional aesthetic. Rather than relying on trims or embellishments, the shape of each shoe is what gives it character. The process begins with the last – a wooden mold used to shape the shoe, precisely customised to each individual design, which lays the foundation for the rest of the shoe’s components.
‘We design for the modern woman, someone who has a lot to do during the day – going to and from work, dropping off or picking up the kids, or going for an aperitivo in the evening. So, what she wears must be practical and comfortable. It’s easy to make a beautiful shoe, but it needs to be functional; otherwise, it won’t be worn. With a garment, you might tolerate a little discomfort since you can still move freely, but with shoes, comfort is essential,’ Susanna says.
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Care guides
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Jersey
Care guides|March 2025
Jersey is a knitted fabric commonly used to make T-shirts, loungewear, and more. Properly caring for your jersey garments will help maintain their softness and stretch.
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Synthetic fibres
Care guides|March 2025
Synthetic fibres such as polyester, polyamide, acrylic, and elastane have many useful properties that can be enjoyed in a variety of garments, including activewear and swimwear. They’re usually comfortable, quick-drying, and keep their shape well. However, they also shed tiny plastic particles that can enter the sea and cause harm to our ecosystems. Here’s how to care for synthetic garments.
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Silk
Care guides|March 2025
Silk is composed of incredibly fine natural protein fibres produced by silkworms. It is surprisingly strong, smooth, breathable, and transports moisture. Handle silk garments with care to maintain their smooth and lustrous texture.
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Canvas
Care guides|March 2025
Canvas items, such as shoes and bags, are popular for their durability and versatility. Proper care can help maintain their appearance and extend their lifespan.
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Baked shallots
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