Jeremy Torz on the potential of better coffee

During a trip to San Francisco in the mid-90s, young scientists Jeremy Torz and Steven Macatonia discovered the difference between good and bad coffee and fell in love with the new café scene. Back in London, they decided to embark on their own journey of discovery, experimenting with roasting beans in Steven’s parents’ garage. They also developed a strong commitment to sourcing, which ultimately led to the founding of Union in 2001.

‘It’s always about so much more than just a cup of coffee,’ says Jeremy Torz. ‘We can’t make a great cup without great beans, and the most important thing is, we will not be able to do it next year if we don’t support the growers and producers.’

For many years, even decades, Torz says, coffee has been underappreciated and underproduced. A negative cycle involving the major coffee trade, roasters and large institutional outlets kept the quality ‘down in a pit’ simply because they could, while still meeting customers’ baseline expectations.

‘If Union was going to create positive change, it had to start with a great cup of coffee. We can’t fulfil our mission of supporting farmers unless we engage consumers, not only with the story but the sheer enjoyment of that cup. These things together give people a reason to return.’

Many people claim they can’t taste the difference between mass-produced and more carefully selected ‘speciality coffee’?

‘I believe that you can bring people along on a journey by demonstrating relevance and ensuring the steps are within their reach. As a roaster, I've always emphasised creating a fair and balanced interpretation of the coffee and not to be swayed by short-lived trends in the roasting community. Everything we do is about not being elitist.

Our work is simply about placing a better cup of coffee in front of as many people as possible and reaching a wider audience. The more people who drink great coffee, the more sacks of beans we can buy, and the more we can support the communities that grow it.’

What is a great cup of coffee?

‘For me, it’s about elegance. It’s sweet and clean, which forms the foundation for everything else. This demands fruit that’s harvested carefully and at the right time to prevent inconsistency and muddiness competing with the finer elements of flavour, like a delicate acidity.

There are so many different flavours in coffee, but only if the coffee is naturally sweet and clean can you have a complex base. What makes speciality coffee unique is its ability to show those flavours so that the first sip feels alive – not bitter, not harsh.’

Do you think speciality coffee can replace commodity coffee on a larger scale?

‘I don't think that's viable because not every coffee fruit can be speciality coffee. There are physical, environmental and technical challenges that prevent some coffees from achieving that sweet and clean quality. And in our time, coffee is a habit. There are moments when food and drink serve as fuel, and others when you savour them.’